By Chrissie Woodward, July 2024
The French Alps have an incredible reputation as a winter ski destination – and it’s deserved. But for a short period in the summer, the area around Morzine-Avoriaz transforms into the perfect summer getaway. The snow is gone, and the ski slopes and forests surrounding this picturesque town become a haven for hikers and adrenaline junkies alike.
Francesca Eyre, mother of three and chalet proprietor based in Morzine-Avoriaz in the French Alps, relocated there after a fortuitous event when her late mother’s pearl necklace was recovered after vanishing. Having lost both her sister and mother to illness within a brief period, Morzine offered Francesca a fresh start, where she met her husband Paul and established their venture, Chilly Powder, offering luxury catered and self-catering accommodations.
“Life remains consistently vibrant here, with each season bringing distinctive sporting activities and landscapes,” Francesca explains. “Last year, we acquired a property in Luberon, South of France, where I operate a Chilly Powder bed and breakfast. Provence serves as our family retreat during off-season periods.
Chilly Powder is a great base from which to explore the beautiful and lively area, tucked away just a few miles outside Morzine, surrounded by imposing cliffs and lush green forests. In July 2024, we were invited to experience the beautiful area to see how the super busy resort during winter transforms into the super summer paradise ideal for walkers, bikers and fresh air fanatics who like to canoe and paraglide.
We flew from Manchester Via an Ethiopian Airlines flight to Geneva. We had organised to pick up our car at the terminal, and then we set off through the centre of Geneva, just catching a glimpse of the amazing lake. It was around 10.30 pm, and it was just starting to get dark, so the lights were just coming on, and the lake looked magical.
Despite a slight mishap with the sat nav (my husband was in charge of this – he had one job!) He had inadvertently put another hotel into said Sat Nav, which took us to Chamonix (a further hour down the road) At this point divorce was on the cards, so by the time we got to Chilly Powder, it may have been summer, but the atmosphere in the car had become distinctly frosty. We finally arrived around 3 in the morning, and the lovely manager Nick had stayed up and waited for us. He did see the funny side of the situation. Just remember to make sure that you put in the right hotel before you leave Geneva.
On our arrival, we were shown to the Wedding room (apt I thought, seeing as my husband was in the bad books). The room had a 4-poster bed, was quaint and had a corner jacuzzi bath in the corner. The room was very traditional, exactly what was expected of a chalet in the Alps. We found the charm of this family-friendly, catered lodge hotel like a home from home. In the morning we were immediately greeted by a vast array of food. Breakfast ranged from fresh fruit, yoghurt, fresh French bread, cheese, ham, salamis, fresh juices and a selection of cereals. There were also several hot items like eggs, sausages etc. Once we tucked into that, we were then off to explore this gorgeous region.
A large communal space continued to allow all the adults in the lodge to eat together at the large, shared table – with ample French wine and delicious home-cooked food. One of the highlights of every day was the fantastic food (they will cater for dietary requirements), the kids who were visiting with their families all had an earlier meeting at 5 pm, so they didn’t disturb the adults. The vibe around the table mealtimes was lovely, we all chatted, got to know each other and found out where the visitors were from, for example, there was a large group of expats from Dubai, who came for some respite from the hot weather. There was also a small bar where you could have a few drinks before and after the meal. Following the dessert (my favourite part), the pièce de résistance was the cheese board that featured a selection from around the region. My husband, a cheese fiend, was in heaven with the monumental selection. Alongside the cheese, there were copious amounts of wine. The conversations at these daily gatherings provided an opportunity for people to share experiences and exchange ideas on the best places to visit, and just as important, to have a laugh and a joke. This is all included in the price. However, guests staying in one of the uncatered Chalets can book in for meals if they want to join in ( this needs to be booked on arrival) and pay on check out. One night, there was a barbecue out on the terrace, and the staff moved the tables outside, and the kids join in on the meal.
This hotel, surrounded by lush gardens and a patio. In the morning, it’s great for relaxing with a coffee before setting off on fun adventures. It was a comfortable place to unwind, and they also have a hot tub to soothe those aching muscles following the rigours of the day.. They also offer massages in the Jurt tented area, which I did indulge in, and that was pure unadulterated bliss. A whole hour of relaxation and peace.
The chalet is surrounded by forests and mountains, offering picturesque views of statuesque cliffs and mountains. The local “Multi-pass” remains an essential tool for visitors. At just 2 euros per day per person, it provides access to the vast majority of ski and chair lifts throughout the valley, the swimming pool, ice rink, and discounts on activities such as paragliding, canoeing and summer tobogganing.
Morzine itself is a lovely town with plenty to do. On a Wednesday the chef has a day off, so that allowed us to eat in the legendry Le Grange, which serves amazing meals, including the cheese fondue, which was delicious and if you don’t want to drive ( I would recommend a car) However the buses that go past every half an hour go into Morzine, so if you are staying local they do cover the area, so a car is not essential if you are staying very local
A short walk from Chilly Powder still takes guests to the modern Prodains cable car – the fastest way up the 600m cliff, the impressive purpose-built ski resort of Avoriaz. During summer, it remains a base for mountain bikers and adventurous hikers. Avoriaz is a ski resort in the winter but is also car-free, so the only way to get there is by bus or cable car and in the summer, the views down the mountain and astonishing. We also ate a local favourite Cheese fondue, which is delicious and amazingly filling.
The charming goat village of Lindarets is a must see. You can get up to here by catching the small train up to the village, which comes every 10 to 15 minutes and picks you up from the top of the ski lift. I made friends straight away with a whole group of super cute goats. We bought some feed from the shop (a guaranteed herd of goats follow you around until the bag is empty, and they move onto the next person), and looking around the village takes minutes. Several local restaurants and Cafes ensure you won’t go hungry or thirsty.
The great thing about the area is that if you are looking for an action-packed holiday including lots of hiking, lake swimming, adrenaline-filled mountain biking, thrilling hang gliding, canoeing, white water rafting, then you will not be disappointed. But if a gentler vibe is more your cup of tea, then it’s perfect for a chilled-out break as well. The scenery, wherever you look, is breathtaking
Morzine itself is a classic alpine town with charm buckets, with wooden chalets, outdoor cafes, and a vibrant summer atmosphere. The town puts on regular events throughout the period for the children, for example, puppet shows. We did stop here for a drink, which was lovely. The following day, we decided to go and look around the local area, explore some new places, including cheese factories and local lakes. The flexibility of the multi-pass made it easy to explore different areas, and the staff at Chilly Powder continued to provide invaluable local insights. There is a wealth of things to do, even if you’re not into the more physical activities, especially if you have hired a car.
Morzine is a brilliant base for exploring both the Haute-Savoie region of France and Switzerland’s Valais region.
We adored our day trip to Annecy during our stay. Often called the “Venice of the French Alps,” it’s only about an hour and a half drive from Morzine. We spent the morning wandering through the cobbled streets of the old town, popping into quaint shops and admiring the picturesque canals. After a lovely lunch by the water, we took a boat trip around the crystal-clear lake with those stunning snow-capped mountains as our backdrop. The French Renaissance château perched above the town is worth the climb for the views alone! If you’re visiting Morzine, Annecy is an absolute must-see.
Nearby Attractions:
Lake Geneva – Western Europe’s largest freshwater lake, just 35 minutes away. Enjoy beaches, watersports, and paddle steamers.
French side: Visit Thonon and Evian spa towns, medieval Yvoire, Evian water factory/museum, and Château de Ripaille.
Swiss side: Explore Geneva, the Red Cross Museum, Olympic Museum in Lausanne, Medieval Gruyeres, Château de Chillon, and the lovely towns of Vevey and Montreux.
Chamonix-Mont Blanc – Just over an hour away. Take the world’s highest cable car to Aiguille du Midi (3,840m) and the Montenvers funicular railway over the Mer de Glace glacier.
Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval & Samoëns – 45 minutes away over Col de Joux-Plane with lovely views of Mont Blanc. Visit the national park and famous alpine botanical garden.
Within 30 minutes: Lake Montriond, Les Gets village, Avoriaz cliff-top resort, Les Linderets goat village, St-Jean-d’Aulps abbey ruins, Abondance abbey and cheese dairy, and the spectacular Devil’s Bridge Gorge.
Chilly Powder continues to operate year-round, offering active summer holidays for individuals, groups, and families looking to experience the stunning Portes du Soleil region.
Summer prices (as of May 2025) start from £1782 per week based on two adults sharing a standard bedroom, or £2965.62 based on 2 adults and 2 children in a family room
Prices are based on a half-board basis with wine included in the evening meals. Self-catered chalets and winter ski holidays are also available.
To learn more or to make a booking, contact Chilly Powder online at info@chillypowder.com or call 020 7289 6958.
Find the ultimate guide on what’s on in Morzine during summer online. Or go to the website to find out more.
